No other lakkha mela may have engaged tourists, media, and photographers as much as Dev Deepawali—the lamp festival that turns Varanasi's ghats into a heavenly spectacle. Observed on Kartika Poornima, fifteen days post-Diwali, the festival transforms the riverfront into a dazzling display of hundreds of thousands of earthen lamps, evoking a sense of timeless wonder. Although Its current version originated in 1985, the festival has strong ties to ancient traditions and Puranic stories.
A tale tells of Lord Shiva and the three offspring of the demon Tarakasura—Vidyunmali, Tarakaksha, and Kamalaksha. By undergoing rigorous penance, the brothers obtained a blessing from Lord Brahma: three impregnable forts crafted from gold, silver, and iron, located in heaven, on earth, and in the underworld. These forts, referred to as Tripura, would align only once in a millennium and could be obliterated by a single arrow shot from an apparently impossible chariot, and solely by one who is free of rage. The demons flourished from this blessing, troubling the gods.
Initially, both Brahma and Shiva did not intervene, as the brothers acted justly. However, following Vishnu's counsel, the demons were gently misled by a new teaching advocated by a heavenly entity, even influencing the sage Narada. After straying from dharma, Shiva gathered the collective energies of the gods and fashioned a remarkable chariot: the earth as its frame, Mount Meru as its bow, Vasuki the serpent as its string, and the Paashupat weapon as its sole arrow. Vishnu transformed into a powerful bull to pull the chariot. As the three forts came into alignment, Shiva unleashed the arrow, obliterating Tripura. From his tears of sympathy for the fallen beings arose the Rudraksha tree. This triumph of good over evil serves as one of the mythological foundations of Dev Deepawali.
Another tale revolves around King Divodasa (Ripunjaya). Blessed with celestial abilities, he governed Kashi under an agreement that prevented even Shiva and the deities from entering the city. After Shiva wed Parvati, he desired to live in Kashi, but this agreement prevented him. The deities sought to uncover weaknesses in Divodasa, dispatching yoginis, Adityas, Bhairavas, and even Ganesha in the form of a Brahmin. No one criticized, for the king was fair and virtuous. Eventually, Ganesha, in his role as chief advisor, softly encouraged Divodasa to request Shiva's return for tranquility. The king set up a Shivalinga close to present-day Mir Ghat and asked Shiva to reside there forever. Ecstatic, the deities came back to Kashi and illuminated the ghats with lines of lamps, leading to Dev Deepawali as the celebration of heavenly return.
Today, the event is truly stunning. Approximately one million lamps adorn the ghats, temples, rooftops, and even drift on the Ganga, transforming its crescent-shaped bend into a sparkling galaxy of illumination. It is said that Ahilyabai Holkar, the Maratha queen of Indore, reinstated this tradition in the 18th century by constructing a grand pillar of a thousand lamps at Panchganga Ghat, which remains the initial site to be illuminated annually.
Every ghat forms its own committee to arrange lamps in spectacular patterns—maps of India, giant Om or Swastik symbols—while locals and volunteers freely contribute lamps, oil, and wicks. The festivities are enriched with fireworks, decorated boats, fire-eaters, and cultural performances of classical music and dance on floating stages. At Dashashwamedh and Shitla Ghats, a grand Ganga Aarti and Dugdhaabhishek are performed, with towering lamps, camphor flames, and floral offerings. The entire ritual unfolds between 6:30 and 9:00 p.m., while boats ferry tourists at premium prices to witness the view from the river. In recent years, laser shows have added a modern touch to the ancient splendour.
However, the celebration is not solely centered on happiness. It serves as a respectful homage to India's fallen heroes. Army, Air Force, Navy, CRPF, and NCC soldiers take part in a ceremonial salute, the Last Post, and drop rose petals from helicopters, while sky lamps are elevated to pay tribute to those who have fallen.
Dev Deepawali is a blend of celebration and remembrance, intertwining mythology, devotion, and patriotism. On this night, Varanasi genuinely transforms into Kashi—“the City of Light”—as a million dancing flames convey a radiant greeting to the gods, captivating every spirit that experiences this eternal blend of devotion and splendor.


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